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The secret history of the colour blue

If you hail from North America or Western Europe, chances are blue is your top colour choice, as it consistently ranks as the most beloved hue in surveys. However, its history is rich and intriguing. For millennia, blue clothing has adorned everyone from warriors to nobility to labourers. Yet, when it comes to its use as a paint pigment, blue tells a different tale, being one of the rarest and most valuable colours. In fact, some artists have even found themselves in financial trouble just to afford this stunning shade!

Synthetic blue

The ancient Egyptians had a deep admiration for the stunning gemstones lapis lazuli and turquoise, which inspired them to create the first synthetic pigment to replicate their vibrant hues affordably. This innovative pigment, known as “Egyptian blue,” was crafted by combining silica, lime, copper, and alkali. It proved versatile and suitable for application on various materials such as stone, wood, plaster, papyrus, and canvas. The numerous decorative artifacts that remain today serve as a testament to the significance of blue in Egyptian culture.

Synthetic blue or "Egyptian blue"

The Barbarians

Did you know that the ancient Greeks and Romans lacked a term for the colour blue?

To Homer, the sea appeared “wine-red.” Blue was linked to the so-called barbaric Celts, who were said to paint their bodies blue for warfare. Women with blue eyes were often viewed as morally questionable, and references to rainbows in Ancient Greece and Rome completely excluded the colour. Despite the absence of a name, the colour itself was very much present. It was, in fact, one of the hues used in clothing, as evidenced by a woman’s tunic depicted on a decorative medallion found in a Pompeii house.

This medallion originally formed part of the decorative scheme on a painted wall in a house in Pompeii

A royal hue

In Early Modern Europe, the vibrant blue dye for textiles was derived from woad, a flowering plant indigenous to the Mediterranean region. Throughout the Middle Ages, the farming of woad in countries like England, France, and Germany led to significant wealth for various towns and areas. Despite its economic impact, the dye was costly to produce and lacked durability, making it a luxury item primarily for the affluent, thus linking it to the nobility. The labouring class, however, donned garments in shades of brown and green, contrasting with the blue attire of the monarchy.

Image in a manuscript depicting royalty in blue

Virginal blue

Blue was not just a costly dye for textiles; it was also a highly valuable pigment for artists. Due to its high price, it was reserved for the most significant themes in their works.

During the Renaissance, the Virgin Mary held unparalleled significance. Her frequent depiction in blue attire rendered this colour emblematic of purity, humility, and the divine essence.

The Madonna of the Book

Ultramarine

Artists in the Renaissance era had to meticulously grind the semi-precious stone lapis lazuli to create ultramarine, a rich blue pigment that became a signature feature of many masterpieces from that time.

The term “ultramarine” is derived from the Latin word ultramarinus, which translates to “beyond the sea,” reflecting the fact that these stones were brought over from Afghan mines by Italian merchants during the 14th and 15th centuries. The cost of ultramarine was so prohibitive that some artists left their works unfinished due to the inability to purchase enough pigment. Even the great Michelangelo found it too pricey, while Raphael reserved its use for the final touches of his paintings.

Ultramarine blue pigment

A hue used for prized porcelain

Chinese blue and white porcelain has been cherished since the 9th century. By the 14th century, the town of Jingdezhen in China started to produce exquisite, translucent white and blue porcelain on a large scale. This style, referred to as “blue and white ware,” utilized cobalt sourced from trade routes that connected to Persia, a material that was valued at twice the price of gold. After production, these stunning porcelain pieces were often sold back to the Middle East, showcasing a blend of traditional Chinese craftsmanship and Islamic design elements.

Early Chinese porcelain

Imitation isn’t always the sincerest form of flattery

For centuries, Europeans endeavoured to replicate Chinese porcelain, but their efforts were largely in vain. The connection between China and porcelain was so strong that the term ‘china’ became synonymous with the delicate material. However, when the secrets of porcelain production finally emerged in the early 18th century, a wave of manufacturers across Europe began to spring up, eager to create their own versions.

Jasperware was European imitation china

The colour wars

Blue was a costly choice for artworks and porcelain, yet it was relatively affordable for textiles. As time passed, blue fabric gained popularity across Europe, becoming a staple for both men and women of all social standings. However, the introduction of a new blue dye known as ‘indigo‘ significantly disrupted the European textile market in the 16th century.

Brought in from Asia, indigo boasted a more intense and enduring blue hue. Concerned about the impact on their domestic textile industries, the governments of France, Germany, and Britain attempted to prohibit the importation of indigo during the 16th and 17th centuries. However, their efforts were futile, and indigo ultimately supplanted woad, leading to the decline of numerous industrial hubs along the way.

Indigo blue used in textiles

Blue jeans

Jean fabric originated in Genoa, Italy, during the 17th century, and soon after, the French city of Nimes adopted the technique, leading to the name ‘denim’ (short for ‘de Nimes’). This durable cotton twill, dyed with indigo, was ideal for labourers due to its strength and washability.

In 1873, Levi Strauss enhanced denim by patenting the use of metal rivets to strengthen the seams of pants, paving the way for what we now know as a fashion staple. The rest, as they say, is history.

Denim blue jeans (short for ‘de Nimes’ France)

The purest of them all

Between 1947 and 1957, French artist Yves Klein dedicated himself to perfecting what he believed to be the ultimate shade of blue. He trademarked this distinctive hue as International Klein Blue (IKB), which became emblematic of his work. Klein created over 200 paintings featuring this deep ultramarine, along with numerous sculptures, and even adorned models in IKB so they could leave their imprints on canvas. He described his blue as “extra-dimensional,” suggesting it had the power to transport viewers beyond the confines of the canvas.

International Klein Blue (IKB)

These days, most blue dyes and pigments are made synthetically, but the colour still carries the same strong symbolism it had when it was rare and expensive. You’ll see the colour in flags, sports teams, and uniforms, representing unity and strength. However, blue can be a bit tricky: “feeling blue” suggests sadness, while “blue skies” are all about optimism and joy.

What does the colour mean to you?


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